I completed the purchase of Aunt Jessie on Monday 20 th June 2005 after a hand-over sail around the Isle of Shuna. She is a Beneteau First 325 built in 1988 and was berthed in Craobh Marina (pronounced Croove) about 6 miles north of Crinan. The next three days were spent going through a list of items to satisfy the insurance company before they would activate the insurance.

This is my first offshore trip since I used to go with my father over 25 years ago. It is also my first as skipper and will be a great opportunity to put my Day Skipper theory into practice. This log covers the passage back to Abersoch, which was made in two stages: Craobh to Troon (3 days) and Troon to Abersoch (6 days including 2 days lost to the weather).

Craobh Marina to Troon.

This was planned to take three days:

Day 1: Craobh to Ardpatrick, West Loch Tarbert (32 nautical miles)

Day 2: Ardpatrick to Campbeltown (50 nm)

Day 3: Campbeltown to Troon via Lamlash (36 nm)

Crew: Roy Dearden (skipper), Tilly and Colin (my sister and brother in-law who would take turns driving the car) and Tony (an old friend). We aim to take turns on the helm, about one hour at a time.

The weather forecast for the next three days was reasonable. My only concern was for day 2 when there was an easterly 3-4 occasionally 5 forecast, possibly veering and dropping later, which would be fine going down the west side of the Mull of Kintyre, but might be rather exposed going round the south end of the Mull. Plan ‘B’ is to go through the Crinan canal at a cost of about £100.

Monday 27 th June 2005

Colin and Tilly drive up from Oxford to Warrington to collect Tony and myself. We have lunch before setting off and stopping for dinner at Inverary. We arrive at Craobh late evening, transfer all our bags on board and turn in.

Tuesday28 th June 2005

Forecast is for variable light winds becoming E 3-4 later. Sky is overcast with little wind. We do some last minute shopping atvillage store and tank up with water while I settle up at the marina office. Tilly will take the car and meet us at Ardpatrick, a small anchorage at the mouth of West Loch Tarbert.

Passage Plan

Charts: Imray C65 Crinan to Mallaig and Barra, C64 Belfast Lough to Lough Foyle and Crinan. Also used: Clyde Cruising Club Directions and Stanford’s Harbour Guide: West Coast of Scotland. GPS: Garmin GPS72.

Waypoints:

WP1: Reisa an t-struith (P) 6nm

WP2: Ruabh Sgeir (P) 9.5nm

WP3: Carriag a Daimh (P) 17.5nm

WP4: Eileen Mor (P) 20nm

WP5: Ardpatrick 32nm

1140 N56 12.70W05 33.80

Depart Craobh. On Chart C65.

1200 N56 11.286W05 36.194 Speed 6.2, Wind Var 0-1, Course 210, Engine on.

Wp1 is visible. As we pass south of the Isle of Luing we can see the mountains of Mull to the north and the infamous Gulf of Corryvrechan to the west. The scenery is absolutely stunning.

1235 N56 07.70W05 39.30 Speed 6.3, Wind Var 0-1, Course 194, Engine on.

Arrived Wp1, Wp2 visible. On Chart C64.

1250 N56 05.33W05 39.003 Speed 9.8, Wind Var 0-1, Course 194, Engine on.

9.8 knots! Is the GPS playing up? One look at the lighthouse whizzing past confirms that all is ok. Colin has been showing Tony the basics of chart work, which, being an engineer (retired), he picks up quickly and is soon making log entries, marking our position on the chart and plotting a course.

It is now hot and sunny and the scenery is spectacular as we proceed down the Sound of Jura. Time for lunch, ham and salad followed by fruit.

1350 N55 56.700 W05 45.500 Speed 8.0, Wind Var 0-1, Course 176, Engine on.

Arrive Wp3, Wp4 visible.

1412 N55 54.320 W05 45.589 Speed 6.9, Wind Var 0-1, Course 162, Engine on.

Arrive Wp4. As we pass the entrance to Loch Sween and Loch Caolisport to port the scenery becomes more pastoral. Also to port is a ketch steaming parallel to ourselves and at a similar speed. Gigha Island is on our starboard bow. Later we cross astern of the ketch. It looks as though she is making for the Sound of Gigha.

1500 N55 49.225 W05 35.566 Speed 7.1, Wind NE 1-2, Course 162, Engine on.

1600 N55 45.377 W05 35.322 Speed 6.3, Wind W 1, Course 090, Engine on.

As advised in Stanford’s Guide we make for Dun Skeig (468ft) keeping the beacon off Eileen Traighe Island to port and when over half way across channel steer 030, then gradually turning N towards anchored boats opposite an old stone pier in front of an isolated house on the N shore in the shelter of the island and anchor in 4m depth.

By the time we are anchored we see Tilly walking down the road toward the house. While she goes back to get the car (she had to get permission as it is a bird sanctuary), Colin and Tony inflate the dinghy, an Avon Redcrest. There is no fitting on the end of the pump hose but they make do by just sticking the hose into the valve. Also the valve on the seat becomes unstuck and so Colin has to row ashore sitting in the bottom. Once Tilly and Colin are back on board, I tie a double rope to the bottom rung of the transom ladder and pass it under the dinghy. We then pull on the rope and we end up with the dinghy resting on its side on the bottom half of the ladder. A most satisfactory arrangement!

We have dinner and then lounge around in the cockpit until about 11pm basking in the glorious evening sun. No sign of the E 3-4 or 5 that was forecast. We turn in and are gently rocked to sleep thanks to Mr MacBrayne…

Wednesday 29 th June 2005

…and woken up again. Actually I didn’t get much sleep. The forecast E wind started to get up during the small hours and every hour or so I poked my head out of the forehatch to check that we weren’t dragging. By 6am it was beginning to howl in the rigging accompanied by the odd shower. I was beginning to wonder if we should have taken the canal.

By 9am we had had breakfast. We couldn’t pick up anything on the VHF or steam radio but I was able to get a signal on my mobile, so I phoned Clyde Coastguard for a forecast. Much to my relief it was E 3-4 veering SE 2-3 later. It was definitely a go.

Passage Plan

WP1: Badh Rock (P) 5.3nm Green conical, keeping Garmhna Gigha light to S.

WP2: Sgeir Nuadh (S) 5.9nm Red can.

WP3: Sgeir Gigulum (P) 7.8nm Green conical.

WP4: Gigulum Rocks (S) 8.8nm W Cardinal.

WP5: Mull of Kintyre Lt 30.8nm Lighthouse.

WP6: S of Mull of K Lt.

WP7: Macosh Rock (P) 37.7nm Red can.

WP8: Arranman’s Barrels(P) 40.5nm Red can.

WP9: 3 masts 43.7nm

WP10: N tip of Davaar Is (P) 48.4nm

WP11: Campbeltown 50.6nm Visitor’s pontoon to right of harbour.

Colin took the dinghy ashore with the outboard and packed it in the car. He would drive down to Campbeltown and arrange for a berth with the harbourmaster.

I turned on the engine switch, and with a bit of throttle, turned the ignition key. No lights, no action…zilch. First reaction was panic! Then… I must stay calm and think this out rationally. With a voltage meter both batteries checked out ok. I then checked behind the three isolator switches. The two battery switches looked new and clean, but the engine switch was gunged up. I cleaned it with a brush and cloth and retried the engine which started right away. This later turned out to be a red herring.

With Tilly in the cockpit, Tony and I started pulling up the anchor which seemed rather heavy. Tilly gave the boat a nudge with the engine which freed it up a bit but then it got really heavy until we found an unbuoyed lobster pot entangled with our chain. It took a few minutes of strenuous effort to untie the lobster pot and then finally we were away.

1115 N55 46.148 W05 35.098 Speed 7.0, Wind E 2, Course 236/210, Eng on.

Depart West Loch Tarbert. After passing behind the incoming ferry we make course for Badh Rock.

1205 N55 42.311 W05 41.366 Speed 6.9, Wind E 2, Course 203, Engine on.

An old copy of the West Coast of Scotland Pilot advises that on no account should the Sound of Gigha be attempted without local knowledge. However the sound is now well buoyed and should present no problems. On the chart the channel looks quite narrow but in reality is quit wide, and the buoys easily seen in good visibility. Soon after Badh Rock (P) we passed Sgier Nuadh (S). On approaching Ardminish Bay on Gigha the small ferry crosses in front of us and a few yachts can be seen at anchor including the ketch we had seen the previous day (see article in Yachting Monthly, April 2005, for article on Gigha). Next was Sgeir Gigulum (P) followed by Gigulum Rocks (S). Once clear we headed up to wind and hoisted the main, unfurled the no. 3 jib, switched off the engine and headed off down the mull. The high ground beyond Machrihanish could be seen clearly as could Rathlin Island.

1305 N55 36.172 W05 35.098 Speed 7.4, Wind E 3, Course 200, Engine off.

S of Gigha Island. Severe gusts coming off the Mull. Despite the angle, Tilly manages to produce some hot soup and hot croissants filled with ham and melted cheese…delicious!

1400 N55 29.394 W05 47.852 Speed 7.5, Wind E 3-4, Course 200, Engine off.

4nm N of Machrihanish. As we approach the mountainous southern end of the Mull the land looks quit dark and menacing.

1500 N55 23.000 W05 52.515 Speed 7.6, Wind E/SE 3, Course 210, Engine off.

5nm from turning point

1540 N55 18.000 W05 54.365 Speed 7.5, Wind SE 3, Course 190/090, Eng off.

Off Mull of Kintyre Lighthouse. Wind has changed as predicted. We tack onto starboard.

1600 N55 16.857 W05 51.601 Speed 7.9, Wind SE 2, Course 090, Engine off.

2nm SW of Mull of Kintyre Lighthouse. We have carried the tide all the way down the Mull. We put in a couple more tacks to clear the south end of the Mull.

1700 N55 16.202 W05 41.594 Speed 3.9, Wind SE 1-2, Course 070, Engine on.

Wind slackens, we furl jip and start engine.

1800 N55 19.080 W05 33.396 Speed 5.7, Wind Var 1-2, Course 040, Engine on.

We have passed through the Sound of Sanda and are now 0.5nm from Wp8, Arranman’s Barrels. It is now warm and sunny.

1900 N55 24.579 W05 31.217 Speed 6.3, Wind Var 1, Course 210, Engine on.

Wp10, Davaar Island. As we approach the entrance to Campbeltown Loch a large ketch follows us in. Following the instructions in Stanford’s Guide we make for the port and starboard buoys marking the narrows channel. Once through we meet a fleet of 8 or 10 yachts racing led by a Sonata. Nothing new there then! Following the starboard hand buoys the Loch opens out and we see moorings to starboard off the Yacht Club and the harbour straight ahead. As we get close we see Colin at the end of the Visitors’ pontoon. We pass down the right hand side in the narrow dredged channel and turn 180 deg to raft up 3 out alongside a Moody 385 at 1940 hrs.

We get talking to the crew of the Moody and an old gentleman recognises the name of our boat and says he remembers it being berthed at Ardrossan and that he knew the previous owner. After dinner on board, Tilly and Colin end up at a party on board the Moody while Tony and I turn in.

Thursday 30 th June 2005

The plan today is that Colin will take the car onto Arran via the Claonaig-Lochranza ferry and will meet us for lunch at Lamlash. He will then take the Brodick-Ardrossan ferry and meet with us at Troon Marina.

Tilly takes advantage of a 50% off sale at Woolworths to get some items for the galley.

Winds today are forecast to be variable light becoming SW 2-3, sunny with mist patches and possibly rain later. The effect of the tides should be mainly neutral apart from Pladda to Lamlash where we should carry the flood.

Passage Plan

WP1: Davaar Island Lt (S) 2.2nm

WP2: Pladda Island Lt (P) 16.6nm 100deg magnetic

WP3: Largybeg Pt (P) 19.6nm 030deg

WP4: Lamlash S Channel(P) 22.4nm Red can 006deg

WP5: Lamlash Moorings 24.2nm 308deg

WP6: Lamlash N Channel 25.6nm 072deg

WP7: Troon Outer (S) 37.8nm Green conical 094deg

WP8: Troon Marina 38.4nm ETA 1800

1040 N55 25.533 W05 36.176Speed 5.0, Wind E 1, Course 090, Engine on.

Depart Campbeltown.

1130 N55 25.614 W05 28.845 Speed 5.0, Wind SE 2, Course 090, Engine off.

2m E of Davaar Island, sailing close hauled on starboard but not laying Pladda. Misty and can bearly see Arran.

1200 N55 25.939 W05 25.184 Speed 5.0, Wind SE 2, Course 090, Engine off.

1300 N55 26.116 W05 16.595 Speed 4.3, Wind SE 2, Course 100, Engine off.

1320 N55 25.961 W05 14.400 Speed 6.0, Wind SE 1-2, Course 100, Engine on.

Speed drops to 3kn. Start engine and furl jib. Sun trying to break through. Ailsa Craig looms through the mist to starboard.

1400 N55 25.227 W05 06.708 Speed 7.0, Wind V 0-1, Course 030, Engine on.

WP2, Pladda light abeam to port. Ailsa Craig looks huge although 10m away to starboard. Turn to port to follow Arran coast up to Lamlash. Tide rip where two currents meet. Colin has arrived at Lamlash.

1425 N55 27.890 W05 04.498 Speed 6.0, Wind V 0-1, Course 010, Engine on.

WP3, Largypeg point abeam to port, change couse for entrance to Lamlash harbour. Holy Island ahead (1000ft) looks impressive.

1452 N55 30.665 W05 04.589 Speed 7.2 Wind Var 0-1, Course 330, Engine on.

WP4, Kingscross Pt at the S entrance to Lamlash harbour.

1510 N55 32.019 W05 07.160 On mooring, Wind 0.

We pick up a visitor’s mooring and Colin comes out to us in the dinghy. We have afternoon tea and take in the spectacular scenery. It is sunny but there are heavy clouds over the mountains. Colin wants to come on the next leg, so Tilly will take the car. Colin takes Tilly ashore and returns. We again park the dinghy on the transom ladder.

1630 N55 32.019 W05 07.160 Speed 6.0, Wind SSW 2, Course 072, Engine on.

Depart Lamlash moorings under engine and main and make for N channel.

1700 N55 32.321 W05 02.135 Speed 4.2, Wind WSW 1-2, Course 095, Eng off.

Ferry appears out of Brodick. Tilly phones to say she has missed it and will catch the next

1800 N55 32.382 W04 51.800 Speed 5.8, Wind Var 1-2, Course 095, Engine off.

Called Troon Yacht Haven on ch80. Assigned berth E15. Lady Isle off Troon visible on stbd bow. Short but heavy rain shower. Wind and speed drop, we furl jib and start engine at 1830. On approaching Troon harbour we pass WP5 a green conical buoy to stbd just off the harbour entrance. The marina is at the far end of the harbour.

1930 N55 32.720 W04 40.597 Wind Var 1.

As we draw alongside the finger pontoon Colin slips as he steps off the boat and lands on his elbow. After securing the boat, Tony and I help Colin back onto the boat. His right arm is in considerable pain. It starts to rain but as he can’t move he has to remain sat in the cockpit. He is also shivering and we suspect a fracture in the upper arm and some shock. I go off to the marina office while Tony makes sure he is kept warm. There is no-one at the office so I return to the boat and Tony calls 118 500 to find the nearest A&E which is at Ayr. They put us through and we are advised to phone 999 for an ambulance which arrives within 15 minutes. The paramedics soon have his arm in a sling and give him a whiff of something to ease the pain. We call Tilly who is on the ferry and relate the bad news. She will come to the boat and then to the hospital. I go in the ambulance with Colin while Tony stays on the boat.

Eventually Tilly arrives at the hospital and we are told that Colin has dislocated his shoulder. They will try to put it back under morphine but if that doesn’t work, it will have to be done under general anaesthetic tomorrow. We go out for fish and chips in Ayr (not recommended) and when we return we are told that Colin will have to have an operation under general anaesthetic. We see Colin who is somewhat out of it with the morphine.

We return to the boat and give Tony the news. As he has to get back tomorrow he will go by train.

Friday 1 st July 2005

Tony leaves us to walk to the station. Colin phones around 10am to say that he has had the operation but isn’t sure what time he can leave. Tilly and I pack up and load the car and go to the hospital and have a snack there before leaving at 3.50pm. We get to Warrington at 8pm and Tilly and Colin arrive home in Oxford after midnight.

Before the second leg of the journey I made two trips up to Troon to do various jobs on the boat.

Troon to Abersoch

This leg of the journey is planned to take 5 or 6 days, allowing for 1 day bad weather.

Day 1: Troon to Portpatrick.

Day 2: Portpatrick to Ardglass or Carlingford Lough.

Day 3: Ardglass or Carlingford to Howth.

Day 4: Howth to Wicklow or Holyhead

Day 5: Wicklow or Holyhead to Abersoch

My crew is to be my cousin Mike’s two sons. Tom aged 17, a qualified RYA dinghy instructor and Nick aged 15. Both are keen dinghy sailors. Nick will be taking a video of the trip.

Sunday 17 th July 2005

Tom and Nick arrive at Warrington from Norwich by train. We have a bite to eat at my house before setting off for Troon around 4.30pm. We have dinner on the M6 and arrive at the Marina a bit after 9pm.

Monday 18 th July 2005

The forecast is SW 3-4 veering W 4-5, rain then showers. For Tuesday it is W 5-6. Not a day to cross the North Channel. Portpatrick is looking a bit dodgy. Loch Ryan is a possibility but I don’t fancy a day at anchor in a force 6. The alternative would be back to Lamlash or Campbeltown.

Before departure we tank up with water and diesel (25 litres @ 48p/ltr).

1100 N55 32.720 W04 40.597.

Depart Troon Yacht Haven under engine.

1130 N55 33.608 W04 45.728 Speed 6.5, Wind SW 4, Course 285, Engine off.

Sea is quite choppy and we are putting the starboard rail under. Will keep on this course for a while. Looks like a hard 48 mile beat to Portpatrick. After while it starts to rain. I decide to go for Lamlash and inform Clyde Coast Guard.

1250 N55 35.420 W04 58.400 Speed 6.3, Wind SW 3, Course 200, Engine off.

Tacked onto starboard. Rain stopped and visibility improving.

1400 N55 31.311 W05 02.041 Speed 6.0, Wind SW 3, Course 170, Engine off.

Off S entrance to Lamlash harbour. Weather improving, now sunny. Decide to carry on to Pladda and if ok continue to Campbeltown, otherwise return to Lamlash. Advise Clyde Coastguard of change of plan.We have to make several tacks to make progress southward. Wind has dropped and we furl jib and motor directly upwind to Pladda. I take the opportunity to make some lunch, soup and cheese and pickle sandwich.

1600 N55 25.185 W05 09.919 Speed 5.5, Wind W 2-3, Course 270, Engine on.

1.8m past Pladda. I inform Clyde Coastguard that we are continuing on to Campbeltown. We are hit by a torrential shower of rain. Poor Tom is on the helm while Nick and I shelter down below.

1705 N55 24.735 W05 18.000 Speed 5.5, Wind W 3-4, Course 230, Engine off.

Now that we are clear of the south end of Arran we switch off the engine and unfurl the jib. However Campbeltown is directly up wind so we have to make a number of tacks. We cross ahead of a Sunsail Jeanneau 36.

1800 N55 24.780 W05 22.937 Speed 4.9, Wind W 2-3, Course 225, Engine off.

We are 5.4nm from Davaar Island. At this rate it is going to be 8.30pm before we are in Campbeltown. I decide it’s time to motor in.

1900 N55 25.774 W05 31.803 Speed 6.5, Wind W 2, Course 282, Engine on.

Just off Davaar Island Lighthouse.

1920 N55 25.530 W05 36.180.

Arrive at visitors’ pontoon in Campbeltown. We raft up in more or less the same place as before next to a local MGC27. Behind us are a 32ft Westerly and a Moody 31, both from Bray south of Dublin. Dinner is fairly basic, boil-in-the-bag fish, potatoes and carrots. Later the Sunsail Jeanneau ties up nextto the Westerly. I tell the boys they can have a lie in tomorrow but we’ll have to be up at 4am on Wednesday.

Tuesday 19 th July 2005

The wind has been howling in the rigging overnight even though we are in a sheltered spot. The forecast is W-SW 4/5, occasional showers, good vis and sea moderate and similar for the following 24hrs.

The 1700 UTC forecast is W veering NW 4/5 occasionally 6 at first. For the following 24 hrs; NW 4/5 decreasing 3. I have a chat with the skipper of Laoni the Moody 31. He and the Westerly are planning to leave around 1530 tomorrow for Bangor. Hopefully the wind and sea will have died somewhat by then. It makes sense to go with them.

Wednesday 20 th July 2005

0500 UTC forecast: NW 4/5 occasionally 6. Following 24 hrs: NW 4/5 becoming variable 3. This reduction is a long time coming. It has been promised for several days.

The Irish yachts are now planning to leave about 0430 on Thursday morning. We will go with them. We have now lost two days and I am concerned that we will not reach Abersoch by Saturday. I have entered all the waypoints into my GPS down to Ardglass with a decision point north of Bangor as to whether to continue to Ardglass. We should carry the flood down to Bangor, but after that the ebb will set in against us.

Thursday 21 st July 2005

Passage Plan

WP1: Davaar Island 2.2nm

WP2: Paterson’s Rk 11.4nm

WP3: Island Magee 38.8nm

WP4: Bangor or 48.0nm

WP4: Mew Island 48.3nm

WP5: South Rock 66.8nm

WP6: Ardglass 79.0nm

0445 N55 25.533 W05 36.176 Speed 5.0, Wind E 2, Course 090, Engine on.

Depart pontoon with navigation lights on followed by the Westerly and Laoni and proceed down Campbeltown Loch. Once out of the loch we hoist the main, unfurl the jib and switch off the engine. I call Clyde Coastguard giving our ETA Bangor 1300hrs.

0510 N55 25.000 W05 31.500 Speed 6.0, Wind NW 2-3, Course 175, Engine off.

On course for WP2, 3nm E of Paterson’s Rock to avoid tide race. Westerly is ahead because she has a furling main and didn’t have to head into the wind. Laoni seems to be having a problem with her genoa.

0600 N55 20.440 W05 29.433 Speed 6.0, Wind NW 2-3, Course 175, Engine off.

3.5m to WP2. Despite it being overcast, it is quite exhilarating to be out here at this hour. Arran, the Ayrshire coast, Ailsa Craig and the N. Irish coast are all clearly visible.

0710 N55 14.313 W05 28.590 Speed 6.0, Wind NW 3, Course 200, Engine off.

2.8nm past WP2. Ailsa Craig is abeam to port.

0800 N55 09.109 W05 30.987 Speed 7.0, Wind NW 3, Course 200, Engine off.

We have now picked up the flood and speed has increased. We are also getting a swell up to 1metre high from the NW.

0900 N55 01.055 W05 33.300 Speed 8.4, Wind NW 3-4, Course 210, Engine off.

Now we are really flying. We can see the Maidens Lighthouse flashing to starboard and are only 11.3nm from WP3 which is 3m E of Island Magee.

0930 N54 56.651 W05 35.300 Speed 8.5, Wind NW 4, Course 210, Engine off.

We have covered 4.8nm in the last half hour. Change to chart C62, Irish Sea. E Maiden lighthouse is almost abeam 5nm to starboard.

1000 N54 52.493 W05 35.624 Speed 8.0, Wind NW 3-4, Course 165, Engine off.

We are only 12nm from Bangor so I have decided to carry on to Ardglass. Our next waypoint is WP4, 3.5nm ENE of Mew Island Lighthouse to avoid a tide race and heavy overfalls. Our course is 145 but we stear above this to avoid an involuntary gybe.

We later gybe to bring us back on course.

1105 N54 46.088 W05 28.666 Speed 8.4, Wind NNW 3-4, Course 150, Eng off.

We get a call from Laoni on ch11 to say she is approaching Bangor. We reply that we are continuing on to Ardglass. As we pass Mew Island the race looks very turbulent. I’m glad to have given it a wide berth. The Sun is now out and it is turning into a lovely day.

1205 N54 40.137 W05 24.279 Speed 7.2, Wind NNW 2-4, Course 180, Eng off.

4.5nm SE of Mew Island heading for WP5, South Rock Light Vessel. The flood is beginning to slacken. Both Tom and Nick have got the hang of steering before the wind with a following sea and despite some play in the tiller, Aunt Jessie handles well.

1300 N54 35.209 W05 23.976 Speed 4.7, Wind NNW 2-4, Course 160, Eng off.

Now the ebb is hitting us. I inform Belfast Coastguard that we are making for Ardglass.

1400 N54 30.228 W05 23.927 Speed 4.0, Wind N 4, Course 180, Engine off.

1500 N54 26.210 W05 22.154 Speed 4.5, Wind N 2-3, Course 180, Engine on.

Only 1.3m to South Rock Light Vessel. We are now out of the North Channel and into the Irish Sea. We can see the Isle of Man on the port horizon. We motor sail for a while as the battery indicator is showing amber. Realise that we have left the nav lights on, so switch them off.

1600 N54 21.360 W05 25.948 Speed 5.5, Wind N 3, Course 230, Engine off.

2.8m to Strangford Lough Fairway. I always imagined Strangford Lough to be quite rugged, but as we pass the entrance, the land is quite low and pastoral. Soon the wind drops and we put the engine on for the rest of the way. We furl the jib and take the main down and put the sail cover on. I call Ardglass Marina on channels M and 80 but get no reply. I succeed on the mobile and book a berth. The entrance to Phennick Cove where the small town of Ardglass is situated is hard to spot for the first time. The GPS makes things so easy. We pass down the middle of the channel and follow the buoys into the marina. I inform Belfast Coastguard that we have arrived.

1745 N54 15.600 W05 36.400

Tied up in Ardglass Marina. It only costs £16 for the night including electricity so we hook up and plug in the coolbox. The marina is owned by the community and is manned by volunteers. The receptionist is not trained on VHF, hence the problem earlier. We have covered 79 nautical miles in exactly 13 hours. It has been a long day and boy are we hungry. It is a glorious balmy evening, so we go for a walk to find a food store. We decide on pasta in cheese and broccoli source. After dinner we avail ourselves of the spotless shower and loo facilities and collapse into bed.

Friday 22 nd July 2005

The forecast is NW becoming variable 3-4. For the following 24 hours it is SE 3-4 becoming E 4-5 later. I had been undecided as to whether to go for Howth or Holyhead. I didn’t want to be faced with crossing the Irish Sea in an easterly tomorrow so Holyhead it is. The crossing should take 11 to 12 hours and there should not be much tide until after passing S of the Isle of Man when we should get a lee bowing tide coming out of Liverpool Bay.

There is only one waypoint, Holyhead harbour entrance, so I put this into the GPS.

0730 N54 15.600 W05 36.400 Speed 6.2, Wind Var 2, Course 150, Engine on.

Depart Ardglass. It is overcast but the sea is flat.

0855 N54 08.707 W05 29.169 Speed 6.4, Wind Var 2, Course 150, Engine on.

We have the mainsail up but it is barely filling at times and we have to strap it in to avoid gybing. Call Belfast Coastguard to tell them ETA Holyhead 2000 hours.

1000 N54 03.666 W05 22.216 Speed 6.0, Wind Var 2, Course 140, Engine on.

We hoist the No. 1 genoa but it is bearly filling. We are now out of sight of land as we pass the odd fishing vessel. A warship passes ahead of us heading SE and a large container ship passes heading NE.

1100 N53 58.470 W05 17.570 Speed 5.8, Wind Var 1-2, Course 160, Engine on.

We try altering course slightly one way and then the other to fill the sails. What wind there is must be behind us because only a small change in course changes the apparent wind from abeam on one gybe to abeam on the other.

We hear a series of booms. Is that warship engaging in firing practice? There are no splashes and there is a fishing boat within a half mile of us so we should be ok. Perhaps they were distant sonic booms.

1200 N53 53.907 W05 11.221 Speed 5.8, Wind Var 1-2, Course 140, Engine on.

We are 15nm SW of Chicken Rock Light, but we can’t see any land.

1300 N53 48.385 W05 05.480 Speed 6.0, Wind NW 1-2, Course 150, Engine on.

We are now half way. Soup and sarnies for lunch.

1400 N53 42.622 W05 01.920 Speed 7.0, Wind NW 1-2, Course 150, Engine on.

We are drifting a bit to right of course. Maybe some tide setting in.

1500 N53 37.397 W04 56.904 Speed 5.8, Wind NW 1-2, Course 120, Engine on.

Alter course to counter the tide.

1600 N53 33.515 W04 51.560 Speed 5.0, Wind SW 2, Course 120, Engine off.

At last we are able to switch the engine off. Land sighted on starboard bow.

1700 N53 29.465 W04 46.790 Speed 6.0, Wind SW 2, Course 120, Engine on.

Too good to last. Engine on again. In shipping separation zone, 10.5nm from Holyhead harbour. Can see the Skerries off port bow. I try to raise the marina on the VHF but no answer.

1800 N53 24.084 W04 41.039 Speed 6.3, Wind SW 2, Course 120, Engine on.

Skerries abeam to port. Can see Langdon W cardinal buoy ahead. As we approach the end of the harbour wall, a large Sea Cat emerges and we can see right between its hulls. I presume she will pass us port to port, but she turns sharply to port, passing in front of us and accelerates off toward Dublin while we bounce through her wake.I call Holyhead Coastguard to let them know we have arrived. We follow the inside of the harbour wall to the marina.

1900 N53 19.000 W 04 41.500

Enter marina and tie up at a vacant finger berth. Marina office (portacabin) is closed, so I call the number on the door and get the code for the gate. I go into town for some milk and then we have dinner.

Saturday 23 rd July 2005

After breakfast we motor round to the fuel pontoon but have to wait as there are two ahead of us. We take on 32.8 litres and go back to the visitor’s pontoon and pay our bill. I phone Andrew at SCYC to let him know we are on the way to make sure a launch is available, as our ETA in Abersoch is 8pm. I aim to carry the ebb from S Stack and pass through Bardsey at slack. I enter our course into the GPS.

The forecast is SE 3-4 backing E/NE 4-5 later.

1135 N53 19.000 W 04 41.500

Depart Holyhead Marina and Harbour. Steer 275 to clear North Stack and tide race off S Stack. I inform Holyhead Coastguard of our ETA Abersoch 2000 hrs.

1300 N53 15.970 W04 44.474 Speed 5.5, Wind SE 1, Course 190, Engine on.

1.3nm West of South Stack. Weather is overcast and hazy.

1400 N53 09.428 W04 45.117 Speed 7.0, Wind SE 1, Course 190, Engine on.

The sun is trying to break through. Yr Eifl just visible to port.

1500 N53 01.900 W04 46.270 Speed 7.7, Wind SE 1, Course 170. Engine on.

Covered 7.5nm in last hour. Yr Eifl almost abeam. Can see Bardsey and sun is out.

1600 N52 46.329 W04 43.379 Speed 9.0, Wind SSW 1, Course 180, Engine on.

8nm covered in last hour. As we approach Bardsey we meet several yachts coming the other way. There are also two yachts following us. Keeping a wide berth of the Tripods (although this shouldn’t matter in these conditions) we pass through Bardsey still on the ebb. There are a few swirly bits but the sea is flat.

1700 N52 46.329 W04 43.379 Speed 8.3, Wind N/NE 1, Course 090, Engine on.

Just though Bardsey Sound and on course for Cilan. We have covered ten, repeat ten nautical miles in the past hour. Yacht behind is catching up. It is a Dehler 36 and looks spanking new. Possibly on a delivery trip.

1800 N52 46.500 W04 32.288 Speed 7.0, Wind Var 1, Course 080, Engine on.

Just off Cilan. Will alter course for St Tudwals shortly. At 1830 we are through the Sound. I call the bungalow on my mobile and Colin answers. He and Tilly have just arrived from Oxford. They will meet us at SCYC.

1830

After searching for a while we find our mooring. We call for the launch and come ashore. The launchmen were surprised to see us so early but we had not been able to contact SCYC either by VHF or phone the whole way round.

It has been a wonderful trip and a great experience. My passage plans have been mostly spot on, especially regarding the tides. I can’t wait for my next cruise.

Roy Dearden

26 th August 2005